Walking through the Jaffna Main Market is not like visiting a supermarket in the city. It is a lesson in botany. The arid, dry climate of the Northern Peninsula produces fruits and roots that you will rarely find in the lush, wet hills of the south.

For the uninitiated traveler, the stalls can look like they are filled with sticks, stones, and strange alien eggs. But these "sticks and stones" are actually some of the most delicious and nutritious snacks in the region. If you want to eat like a true local, you need to look past the apples and oranges and try these five unique items.

The Hard Snack: Odiyal

You will see baskets filled with what look like hard, white bone fragments or dry sticks. This is Odiyal, the dried root of the Palmyra tree.

To the locals, this is a snack. To an outsider, it is a challenge. Raw Odiyal is incredibly hard. You don't bite it; you gnaw on it. It has a very distinct, slightly bitter flavor that becomes addictive once you get used to it. It is often eaten as a pastime while chatting or waiting for a bus.

There is also a "fried" version where the root is boiled, dried, and then deep-fried with chili and salt. This version is crunchy, much easier to eat, and serves as an excellent bar snack.

The "Stone" Fruit: Woodapple

If you see a pile of grey, tennis-ball-sized objects that look like rocks, you have found the Woodapple.

The name is accurate the shell is as hard as wood. You have to crack it open against a stone or with the back of a heavy knife. Inside, the pulp is dark brown, sticky, and smells pungent somewhere between blue cheese and raisins.

Do not let the smell scare you. The taste is a sour-sweet explosion. Locals scoop the pulp out and mix it with a little sugar or eat it plain with a pinch of salt. It is also turned into a thick, refreshing juice ("Divul Kiri") which is a must-try if you see it at a juice stall.

The Jelly Treat: Ice Apple (Nungu)

This is the gentler side of the Palmyra tree. The fruit looks like a small purple coconut. The vendor will use a machete to slice off the top, revealing three translucent, jelly-like sockets inside.

This is Nungu, or Ice Apple. The texture is similar to lychee but softer and more watery. It is incredibly cooling and hydrating, making it the perfect roadside snack when the Jaffna sun is at its peak. You scoop the jelly out with your finger and slurp it down. It is sweet, mild, and refreshing.

The Boiled Shoot: Kilan (Pinattu)

Often sold in yellow bundles tied together, Kilan is the boiled and dried shoot of the Palmyra palm. Unlike the hard Odiyal, Kilan is fibrous and chewy.

You peel the outer layer off like a string cheese and chew on the fibrous inside to extract the flavor. It tastes earthy and starchy, similar to corn but less sweet. It is a high-fiber snack that is often sold by bicycle vendors roaming the streets.

The Giant Grape: Jaffna Grapes

You might be surprised to see grapes growing in this tropical heat. Jaffna is famous for its vineyards, particularly in the areas north of the town.

The grapes here are distinct from the imported seedless varieties you buy in supermarkets. These are almost black, round, and seeded. The skin is thick, and the flavor is intensely sweet with a sharp tartness at the end. They are usually sold in small plastic bags at the market entrance. They are robust and flavorful a true "fruit" taste compared to the watery imported versions.

A Realistic Note on Taste

Exploring the Jaffna market requires an open mind. Many of these items especially the Odiyal and Woodapple are acquired tastes. They are not sugary-sweet like a mango. They are bitter, sour, and hard. They reflect the tough, dry landscape they come from.